A Year in the Life of Master Parfumeur Jean-Claude Ellena

Jean-Claude Ellena

"Smell is a word, perfume is literature."

Jean-Claude Ellena describes himself as a "writer" of fragrances. He is also a lovely composer of prose, which is not lost in the translation of his book The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur.

First published in Ellena's native French, the book became available in English this month (Rizzoli ExLibris, $24.95). It's worth a read not only if you are enamored with the fragrance industry, but if you appreciate reading about artistic process, which Ellena experiences through the unique medium of molecules. 

The Diary of a Nose
by Jean-Claude Ellena,
Rizzoli ExLibris, 2013.

Ellena has been the exclusive perfumer to the house of Hermes since 2004. Over the course of his career he has created some of the world's bestselling fragrances including First from Van Cleef & Arpels, Eau Parfumee au The Vert from Bulgari, and Declaration from Cartier. 

Ellena wrote his book based on observations he jotted in his beloved moleskin notebook throughout 2009. Entries chronicle perfume launches, speaking engagements and dinner parties around the world, balanced by quiet times in his studio in Cabris. 

Ellena offers poetic insight into the concepts and process behind his perfumes as he strives to evoke phrases, compositions and themes. He also shares his inspirations — from bergamot, pear, fresh mint and limes, to his favorite authors and Japanese calligraphy.

Ellena's beloved moleskin notebook and fountain pen.

"... I deliberately leave gaps, 'spaces,' in perfumes for each individual to fill with their own imagination," he writes.

At the back of the book is "A Summary of Smells" in which Ellena shares DIY formulae for such scents as sugared almond, olive and gardenia. 


Ellena was born in Grasse, France, considered the world's capital of perfume and the location of the International Museum of Perfumery. His father, brother and daughter are also perfumers. 

"I went into perfumery as if into a religion," he writes.

Jean-Claude Ellena smells blotters at the IKEA table which doubles as a desk, in his studio in Cabris, France.